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EVENT
TRAVEL GEREWOL: Introduction
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In
the West African Republic of Niger, in the grass savanna of the
hot Sahel between Tahoua and Agadez, live the Wodaabé, the
nomadic shepherds of the Bororo tribe.
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The
Wodaabé drive their cattle year-round in an area of many thousands
of square miles, searching out new grazing places. As a consequence
they rarely find themselves in the company of other members of their
tribe. To ensure the continuation of the tribe, the members of two
Bororo lineages meet at the end of the rain season at the beginning
of October at Gerewol.
Gerewol is first
and foremost a marriage market, but one wearing the attire of a male
beauty contest. The men make up their lips, eyebrows, and cheeks with
natural cosmetics. They wear fantastic jewellery in the form of feathers,
pearls, amulets and they dance together, arm in arm, in a line, to
attract the attention of girls with comic expressions and songs.
A delegation of girls, picked by the elders, decides each year on
the most beautiful man.
The Wodaabé are not used to meeting Europeans. How could they
be, with their nomadic life far out in the vast Sahel. They do know
though, from occasional experience, that Europeans can rarely withstand
the temptation of photographing this astonishing aesthetic spectacle,
this incredible, fascinating, colourful and authentic experience that
is the Gerewol. But the Wodaabé reacts generously and tolerantly
to the obtrusiveness of the European. They find it amusing to watch
the "Whites" peering through their glass-eyed box and to
see how happy it makes them.
This is an amazing
opportunity for photographers, relaxed and undisturbed, to take sensational
shots. But even so, we would ask now, that you take your time initially,
time to establish contact and make acquaintance. We want to spend
many days in the Gerewol. We want to be able to move around confidently
with the Wodaabé and not be regarded as strangers. This is
not a photographer's gold rush. We want to take the time to appreciate
the simple life of the Wodaabé, and perhaps take a little of
their wisdom home with us. This is the real purpose of our journey.
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The
Gerewol of the Wodabeé, in the middle of the barren nature
of the Sahel, is unmistakably African. It is one of the last traditional
festivals in West Africa, free from commerce and hardly known to
the media. You are pretty much guaranteed to be the only
visitors there. But remember, the Nomads have a very different
sense of time and calendar. We will only find out on the spot where
exactly the Wodaabé intend holding their festival this year.
Since different Bororo lineages celebrate their Gerewol at the same
time, several Gerewol occur over a six-week period. There is a good
chance therefore, of coming across one. However, we can't guarantee
anything, since the reality is that nomad festivals are not held
by appointment. And it should be kept in mind that the Gerewol is
only one of the many highlights of the trip.
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